CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK

A bright and early start is had again, to travel only a few miles into the North end of the contrasting Canyonlands National Park. With only about 25miles between them, Arches and Canyonlands in the Island in the Sky District, are so different to each other, it has to be seen to be believed. Our morning is punctuated by many WOW exclamations as we traverse this mesa of land with its white rim of sandstone below. One boggles at the land of deep canyons within canyons to the rivers 1000ft below. As we look deep into this landscape of changing hues we cannot help but be humbled by its splendor.

It has taken mother earth millions of years to create this masterpiece. After the lifting of the Colorado Plateau two major rivers, the Colorado and the Green, have carved their way through the unsuspecting rocks to create a masterpiece that one just has to see to believe. Described by author Edward Abbey, a frequent visitor and environmental advocate, as “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth – there is nothing else like it anywhere”. We read these words and wonder how it will compare to the Grand Canyon, as this area looks like how we imagine it.

As one stands and views the rim from the Grand View point there is evidence of the bygone days of Uranium mining, a pattern of tracks that even in 60 years nature has not managed to erase, stark evidence of the damage we can do. Remember every step we take has an impact. There is, however, one road in the park users are still allowed to take, the Shafer trail, a 4WD track that traverses 100miles around the lower rim. Not being in such a vehicle this visit, we decide this is another job for the bucket list, we shall return to adventure more, also allowing us to enter the less traveled district of the Maze, further south in the park.

We are not finished yet though, our day continuing on to the rim of Upheaval Dome. This extraordinary natural wonder has not been entirely deciphered, but thought to be a huge bowl of salt having pushed skyward. It has formed strange volcanic shaped domes, many petrified, pointy, light grey mounds. Have I confused you yet. Hard to describe but awesome to witness.

We continue on to see all sorts of wonderful shapes carved from this land. At this height above sea level the world is arid and harsh. We are in wonder at the wildlife that survives in such an extreme climate of freezing snow to blistering heat. One such tree of this rocky world, the Pinyon Pine, that has the audacity to thrive, makes a root system often as large as the tree is above the ground, spreading over the rock before it finds a niche to tunnel into to find it’s nutrients, often splitting rocks in two. Whilst we are standing on the edge of the world the wind is blasting through giving us the added bonus of listening to the Pinyon Pine, a song of nature that is haunting. The smaller Utah Juniper, sometimes the only companion to the pine adds its tune to the melody. What a wonderful world.

Behind any photo we have taken toward the East there is the added backdrop of La Sal Mountain. It beckons us to it, so after a quick visit into Moab, the very close gateway town to these parks, we head out on another scenic byway. This road takes us on about a 60mile circuit that starts by winding along the mighty Colorado River. Traversing this road at river level with huge buttes of rock each side is one of the loveliest drives we have experienced. The river is calm but fast moving and in parts rushes and babbles over the rocky base. It is a river of power that is to be respected, knowing how strong it is when the water is high. Just looking at the evidence its might and all it has created has provided us with a day of wonder. This area is easily as beautiful as the nearby national parks. Like with all our travels, what you can see just from your car is outstanding, you can’t beat a road trip.

The road snakes on into the La Sal mountains and the views are amazing. Snow is starting to build and the deer are found in the still clear areas nibbling away, knowing food will become scarcer soon. They stop briefly to watch us watch them, intrigued but not afraid. We are in envy of the few houses that we see in this highland world, their views are amongst the best you can imagine and the peace and tranquility divine. Our drive drops back down and into Moab where we are very glad to be heading to a hotel. Nice big beds and a shower to finish a spectacular day. Also an evening catching up on the washing, there are always some chores to do even on the road. Was that a winge, sorry, must be a little bit tired. Not a day goes by that we do not discuss how incredibly lucky we are to be witnessing such amazing natural beauty, no room for complaint.

The following day we set off to complete our time in the Canyonlands National Park by visiting the lower district of The Needles. This is a road that leads you to the white rim area, still looking down into canyons and gorges but also looking up to where we have been the day before, on the high mesa. There are once again all sorts of formations to delight us but one that is new to our view of huge rocks with the white rim capping looking like a world of overgrown, prehistoric mushrooms. We enjoy our picnic lunch in the car here as we are visited by some very determined ravens who jump on the car to get a closer look at us. Is this what it is like to live in a zoo? Georgia is loving this experience, or not! She just does not like up close and personal moments with birds, a constant source of amusement for Mikayla and I.

Our lunch break over we head back out of the park and have to say the drive out is almost better. At this level of the landscape we are surrounded by buttes of rock so splendid and so many. I can describe this area as natures junkyard as we pass by billions of massive rocks discarded by the sheer cliffs. They create a jumble of rocks of all sizes mounded up to form a sloping base to these towering edifices. Just fascinating and ruggedly beautiful. Our daylight hours are getting less and we have to turn towards the mountains, our time here at an end. Thank you Canyonlands, cannot understand why you have so few visitors each year in comparison to the bigger reputation parks, you are simply stunning and Mr Abbey had you down to a tee.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.

ARID AND ORANGE, ARCHES NATIONAL PARK

The beauty of camping is a nice early start, most of the time, perfect for our 150 mile journey to our next destination, Arches National Park. This is once again a very unique geological wonder. It differs in its formation in that it was created essentially by salt. Around 300 million years ago a sea covered the area becoming cut off and eventually evaporating to leave a huge salt layer subsequently covered with different sand and minerals over the ages. The incredible weight eventually liquefied the salt that had to find a way to the surface and, having been pushed against a lifted rock fault pushed upward to fracture the essentially Entrada Sandstone surface. This along with the constant barrage of the wind, washing of water and cracking expansion of ice has created the parks unique density of arches, the most famous being Delicate Arch. The park is home to over 2000 arches, impossible to see all in a day.

Our visit to the information center sees us take in a film of the park and also chat with some very helpful Rangers who give us valuable information for further camping and also arm us with maps to take in Scenic Routes in this area and beyond into Colorado. From the visitors center we climb the zigzag road ascending approximately 1000ft upward into the park. It is a day of blue skies that accentuate the spectrum of reds and orange through to sand coloured structures that make this park so unique.

We see arches of all sizes, from a small double arch window to the dizzying heights of Delicate Arch or the football field expanse of Landscape Arch in the Devils Garden region. It is an ever changing world as the elements never stop eroding these structures, destroying some and beginning others, creating balancing acts of rocks atop a spire, huge buttes of orange splendor, cliffs of solid rock faces that can peal away to deliver boulders into the valley below, a field of petrified sand dunes to make your jaw drop. We walk ourselves ragged till sunset, thoroughly enjoying our visit, before heading off to the outskirts of our next destination to find ourselves a spot to camp. We have to be forever mindful of the local inhabitants of this arid scenery, the rattlesnake and the scorpion. Stepping from the car could be dangerous but so far so good. This area truly reminds us of Australia with its red billowing dust, so we keep our steps to a minimum.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.

MOVING ON TO CAPITOL REEF NATIONAL PARK

On the road again, we just can’t wait to be on the road again! The morning light treats us to spectacular scenery. We are traveling through some amazing high hills strewn at their base with the rock rubble shredded from the cliffs above. The cliffs are very white sandstone carved by the elements to create some amazing shapes and structures. Some parts are similar to the Badlands with mounds of grey silt looking rivulets streaming down the sides. These are actually petrified sand dunes. On the seemingly flat valley floor the ice capped river snakes its way across the landscape, its colour a lovely turquoise reflected by the white sediment washed down from above. In parts the naked deciduous trees, cottonwoods I believe, giving a ghostly atmosphere, surround the river. There are higher mountains with a tabletop plateau, their cliffs showing the changing colours in layers through the ages. Just spectacular and this is just while we are traveling along the road.

This drive leads us into the Grand Staircase Escalante area, also home to large ranches complete with their cattle and strong hardy looking horses. Although there are sunny blue skies the ice on the water belies the temperatures the stock around here would have to cope with. What more will this day divulge?

The landscape opens wide as we climb and descend a more gentle undulating area, with surprise gorges carved into the ground. We pass over a hill and around a bend and the landscape spreads a magnificent view before us of the Escalante River Basin. It is a huge area of limestone gulches and chasms that we are about to descend into and cross. It is surrounded with some of the mountains of the Henry Range and the Navajo mountains that help to feed this waterway that feeds to the mighty Colorado River. Every turn provides another vista of the most interesting limestone formations. As we take a deep descent we stop to view the gorgeous gorges, turning more red as we go deeper seeing the ribbon of the river snaking along the floor. This river provides a lifeline to all the wildlife that calls this arid landscape home, from mountain lions to otters and many species of birds.

How rugged this world was for the new pioneers to the area, a most inhospitable land that only the bravest must have explored. No snaking bitumen road winding an easy trail across this land back in those days.

We rise up to traverse along the very top of the ridge, a road with no safety rails, and a nasty end if you leave the road. We traverse Buffalo Mountain and as our altitude grows we start to see patches of snow and mighty Aspen and Ponderosa Pine trees dot the slopes. We come across what must be a Thanksgiving tradition for a group of about 8 cars that are choosing and chopping down their Christmas trees, not sure if this is legal or not.

Stopping for lunch atop the mountain is a reward of one of the most jaw dropping views of the plateau, the orange ridges with their tabletops and beyond the grey silted tabletop slopes. The plateau is doted with the odd body of water shinning a steel blue amongst the dark green Aspen. Words do not do this view justice, a body of land that was the last chartered in the USA late 1800’s. It is certainly a treat to see this world.

We finally reach our destination for this day and enter Capitol Reef National Park. This is another environment similar to what we’ve seen in Utah, yet unique to its immediate surrounds. It got its name as a Barrier Reef to the early settlers and became Capitol after a rock formation within the park was likened to the US Capitol Building in Washington, DC. This park is known as a Waterpocket Fold or literally a wrinkle in the earth that stretches for over 100 miles, creating a long narrow park.

The formations are just incredible, in some places looking like coral sponges and others like Swiss cheese and all through with ever-changing colours. There is an ever-present “reef” of a yellow/grey colour that dominates throughout the rock formations, laid down many millions of years ago.

This reef caused much damage in the 1950’s and 1960’s when it was decided this could be rich in Uranium. This began a rush of mining throughout this National Monument, though damage was done it was lucky that there was not enough uranium to make a profit and mining was ceased. This is a spectacular park that has once again been kept very accessible with views of so many highlights that are just a short walk away from the road. We particularly enjoy a long drive through Cohab Canyon showing so much diversity and incredible beauty. Every corner you turn is just fantastic.

This is a park very rich in history, other than the infamous uranium. There are the Petroglyphs, for our Aussie friends – rock art, thought to date back to between 600 and 1300 AD and drawn by the Fremont Indians descendants of the Archaic Indians that have roamed this region for many thousands of years. More recently, in the 1800’s, the Mormons and the ranchers settled this land. Today there is still a flourishing orchard of over 3,000 trees preserved from these pioneering days along with an original homestead, Gifford House.

This park, like many others, has its very own flora and fauna. You can hike for miles should you choose out into the backcountry but for us today a few short hikes are enough. Our day is coming to a close, we head just outside the park to find a free camping spot for the night. We are very lucky to spot a road that takes us to the top of a gorge of sandstone, perfect. It is a chilly night so we expect those frosty windows again, but we are quite cozy under our sleeping bags and doona. This has been a day so jam packed with beauty and it doesn’t end with the setting sun but soon shines bright with the stars and half moon, our parking spot a spectacular sandstone backdrop to the magic of the night skies.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.