A bright and early start is had again, to travel only a few miles into the North end of the contrasting Canyonlands National Park. With only about 25miles between them, Arches and Canyonlands in the Island in the Sky District, are so different to each other, it has to be seen to be believed. Our morning is punctuated by many WOW exclamations as we traverse this mesa of land with its white rim of sandstone below. One boggles at the land of deep canyons within canyons to the rivers 1000ft below. As we look deep into this landscape of changing hues we cannot help but be humbled by its splendor.
It has taken mother earth millions of years to create this masterpiece. After the lifting of the Colorado Plateau two major rivers, the Colorado and the Green, have carved their way through the unsuspecting rocks to create a masterpiece that one just has to see to believe. Described by author Edward Abbey, a frequent visitor and environmental advocate, as “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth – there is nothing else like it anywhere”. We read these words and wonder how it will compare to the Grand Canyon, as this area looks like how we imagine it.
As one stands and views the rim from the Grand View point there is evidence of the bygone days of Uranium mining, a pattern of tracks that even in 60 years nature has not managed to erase, stark evidence of the damage we can do. Remember every step we take has an impact. There is, however, one road in the park users are still allowed to take, the Shafer trail, a 4WD track that traverses 100miles around the lower rim. Not being in such a vehicle this visit, we decide this is another job for the bucket list, we shall return to adventure more, also allowing us to enter the less traveled district of the Maze, further south in the park.
We are not finished yet though, our day continuing on to the rim of Upheaval Dome. This extraordinary natural wonder has not been entirely deciphered, but thought to be a huge bowl of salt having pushed skyward. It has formed strange volcanic shaped domes, many petrified, pointy, light grey mounds. Have I confused you yet. Hard to describe but awesome to witness.
We continue on to see all sorts of wonderful shapes carved from this land. At this height above sea level the world is arid and harsh. We are in wonder at the wildlife that survives in such an extreme climate of freezing snow to blistering heat. One such tree of this rocky world, the Pinyon Pine, that has the audacity to thrive, makes a root system often as large as the tree is above the ground, spreading over the rock before it finds a niche to tunnel into to find it’s nutrients, often splitting rocks in two. Whilst we are standing on the edge of the world the wind is blasting through giving us the added bonus of listening to the Pinyon Pine, a song of nature that is haunting. The smaller Utah Juniper, sometimes the only companion to the pine adds its tune to the melody. What a wonderful world.
Behind any photo we have taken toward the East there is the added backdrop of La Sal Mountain. It beckons us to it, so after a quick visit into Moab, the very close gateway town to these parks, we head out on another scenic byway. This road takes us on about a 60mile circuit that starts by winding along the mighty Colorado River. Traversing this road at river level with huge buttes of rock each side is one of the loveliest drives we have experienced. The river is calm but fast moving and in parts rushes and babbles over the rocky base. It is a river of power that is to be respected, knowing how strong it is when the water is high. Just looking at the evidence its might and all it has created has provided us with a day of wonder. This area is easily as beautiful as the nearby national parks. Like with all our travels, what you can see just from your car is outstanding, you can’t beat a road trip.
The road snakes on into the La Sal mountains and the views are amazing. Snow is starting to build and the deer are found in the still clear areas nibbling away, knowing food will become scarcer soon. They stop briefly to watch us watch them, intrigued but not afraid. We are in envy of the few houses that we see in this highland world, their views are amongst the best you can imagine and the peace and tranquility divine. Our drive drops back down and into Moab where we are very glad to be heading to a hotel. Nice big beds and a shower to finish a spectacular day. Also an evening catching up on the washing, there are always some chores to do even on the road. Was that a winge, sorry, must be a little bit tired. Not a day goes by that we do not discuss how incredibly lucky we are to be witnessing such amazing natural beauty, no room for complaint.
The following day we set off to complete our time in the Canyonlands National Park by visiting the lower district of The Needles. This is a road that leads you to the white rim area, still looking down into canyons and gorges but also looking up to where we have been the day before, on the high mesa. There are once again all sorts of formations to delight us but one that is new to our view of huge rocks with the white rim capping looking like a world of overgrown, prehistoric mushrooms. We enjoy our picnic lunch in the car here as we are visited by some very determined ravens who jump on the car to get a closer look at us. Is this what it is like to live in a zoo? Georgia is loving this experience, or not! She just does not like up close and personal moments with birds, a constant source of amusement for Mikayla and I.
Our lunch break over we head back out of the park and have to say the drive out is almost better. At this level of the landscape we are surrounded by buttes of rock so splendid and so many. I can describe this area as natures junkyard as we pass by billions of massive rocks discarded by the sheer cliffs. They create a jumble of rocks of all sizes mounded up to form a sloping base to these towering edifices. Just fascinating and ruggedly beautiful. Our daylight hours are getting less and we have to turn towards the mountains, our time here at an end. Thank you Canyonlands, cannot understand why you have so few visitors each year in comparison to the bigger reputation parks, you are simply stunning and Mr Abbey had you down to a tee.
Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.
Here We Come World 