CANYONLANDS NATIONAL PARK

A bright and early start is had again, to travel only a few miles into the North end of the contrasting Canyonlands National Park. With only about 25miles between them, Arches and Canyonlands in the Island in the Sky District, are so different to each other, it has to be seen to be believed. Our morning is punctuated by many WOW exclamations as we traverse this mesa of land with its white rim of sandstone below. One boggles at the land of deep canyons within canyons to the rivers 1000ft below. As we look deep into this landscape of changing hues we cannot help but be humbled by its splendor.

It has taken mother earth millions of years to create this masterpiece. After the lifting of the Colorado Plateau two major rivers, the Colorado and the Green, have carved their way through the unsuspecting rocks to create a masterpiece that one just has to see to believe. Described by author Edward Abbey, a frequent visitor and environmental advocate, as “the most weird, wonderful, magical place on earth – there is nothing else like it anywhere”. We read these words and wonder how it will compare to the Grand Canyon, as this area looks like how we imagine it.

As one stands and views the rim from the Grand View point there is evidence of the bygone days of Uranium mining, a pattern of tracks that even in 60 years nature has not managed to erase, stark evidence of the damage we can do. Remember every step we take has an impact. There is, however, one road in the park users are still allowed to take, the Shafer trail, a 4WD track that traverses 100miles around the lower rim. Not being in such a vehicle this visit, we decide this is another job for the bucket list, we shall return to adventure more, also allowing us to enter the less traveled district of the Maze, further south in the park.

We are not finished yet though, our day continuing on to the rim of Upheaval Dome. This extraordinary natural wonder has not been entirely deciphered, but thought to be a huge bowl of salt having pushed skyward. It has formed strange volcanic shaped domes, many petrified, pointy, light grey mounds. Have I confused you yet. Hard to describe but awesome to witness.

We continue on to see all sorts of wonderful shapes carved from this land. At this height above sea level the world is arid and harsh. We are in wonder at the wildlife that survives in such an extreme climate of freezing snow to blistering heat. One such tree of this rocky world, the Pinyon Pine, that has the audacity to thrive, makes a root system often as large as the tree is above the ground, spreading over the rock before it finds a niche to tunnel into to find it’s nutrients, often splitting rocks in two. Whilst we are standing on the edge of the world the wind is blasting through giving us the added bonus of listening to the Pinyon Pine, a song of nature that is haunting. The smaller Utah Juniper, sometimes the only companion to the pine adds its tune to the melody. What a wonderful world.

Behind any photo we have taken toward the East there is the added backdrop of La Sal Mountain. It beckons us to it, so after a quick visit into Moab, the very close gateway town to these parks, we head out on another scenic byway. This road takes us on about a 60mile circuit that starts by winding along the mighty Colorado River. Traversing this road at river level with huge buttes of rock each side is one of the loveliest drives we have experienced. The river is calm but fast moving and in parts rushes and babbles over the rocky base. It is a river of power that is to be respected, knowing how strong it is when the water is high. Just looking at the evidence its might and all it has created has provided us with a day of wonder. This area is easily as beautiful as the nearby national parks. Like with all our travels, what you can see just from your car is outstanding, you can’t beat a road trip.

The road snakes on into the La Sal mountains and the views are amazing. Snow is starting to build and the deer are found in the still clear areas nibbling away, knowing food will become scarcer soon. They stop briefly to watch us watch them, intrigued but not afraid. We are in envy of the few houses that we see in this highland world, their views are amongst the best you can imagine and the peace and tranquility divine. Our drive drops back down and into Moab where we are very glad to be heading to a hotel. Nice big beds and a shower to finish a spectacular day. Also an evening catching up on the washing, there are always some chores to do even on the road. Was that a winge, sorry, must be a little bit tired. Not a day goes by that we do not discuss how incredibly lucky we are to be witnessing such amazing natural beauty, no room for complaint.

The following day we set off to complete our time in the Canyonlands National Park by visiting the lower district of The Needles. This is a road that leads you to the white rim area, still looking down into canyons and gorges but also looking up to where we have been the day before, on the high mesa. There are once again all sorts of formations to delight us but one that is new to our view of huge rocks with the white rim capping looking like a world of overgrown, prehistoric mushrooms. We enjoy our picnic lunch in the car here as we are visited by some very determined ravens who jump on the car to get a closer look at us. Is this what it is like to live in a zoo? Georgia is loving this experience, or not! She just does not like up close and personal moments with birds, a constant source of amusement for Mikayla and I.

Our lunch break over we head back out of the park and have to say the drive out is almost better. At this level of the landscape we are surrounded by buttes of rock so splendid and so many. I can describe this area as natures junkyard as we pass by billions of massive rocks discarded by the sheer cliffs. They create a jumble of rocks of all sizes mounded up to form a sloping base to these towering edifices. Just fascinating and ruggedly beautiful. Our daylight hours are getting less and we have to turn towards the mountains, our time here at an end. Thank you Canyonlands, cannot understand why you have so few visitors each year in comparison to the bigger reputation parks, you are simply stunning and Mr Abbey had you down to a tee.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.

VERSAILLES, CHAMBORD AND CHENONCEAU

The last few days we have seen some breathtaking places. Chateaus seemed to be the theme with visits to the Palace of Versailles, Chateau of Chambord and Chateau of Chenonceau on three consecutive days. I’m glad we ended up seeing them this way because it made them so much more interesting to link the history and compare the architecture and interior design.

They all had quite a few features in common, first being size, they are so enormous and extravagant. Also their beautiful ceilings, worn stone and tile floors, velvet and painted walls, huge tapestries, portraits, and gardens. I can only imagine how long it took and the skill required to build these palaces of intricate detail and magnitude so long ago.

First stop was the Palace of Versailles and when walking up to it you are struck by the amount of gold detail and the enormity of it. Walking closer you are surrounded on three sides by the palace inside a huge courtyard of cobblestones. We bought an audio guide and it was well worth it to get an insight into the history of Versailles, the French royal family and my favourite part, what each room was used for and who lived there.

The palace was not always as big as it is today; built for Louis XIII originally, it was built onto and embellished by future generations to come. The family was forced to leave during the French Revolution in 1789 and most of the furniture inside now is replica with only a few original pieces recovered.

We saw the King’s and Queen’s apartments, it was strange that most rooms were open to the public and even people even came to watch the King and his family eat. We also saw Marie-Antoinette’s bedroom and the secret door she fled through during the revolution. I wish we could have walked the secret corridors! The hall of mirrors was spectacular, so light and pretty with many chandeliers hanging from the ceiling and so much gold it’s almost tacky, but not out of place here!

We did Chambord the next day, ordered built by King Francis I, it was sort of a holiday home he used as a base when he wanted to go hunting on the huge purpose built estate surrounding the chateau. So extravagant, to give you an idea it is 156 meters long, 56 meters tall, has 77 stair cases, 282 fireplaces and 426 rooms, and the King only spent 72 days here during his 32 year reign ad never actually saw the building complete before his death! Crazy!

From outside it really does look like Cinderella’s Castle. Inside it’s quite bare now although you have a much greater freedom to explore the rooms and corridors. One of the defining features, different to any other chateau, is its double helix stair case, thought to be to work of Leonardo da Vinci who once lived nearby.

Last but certainly not least was Chenonceau, dubbed the ladies chateau because of it’s all female ownership. This one was our favourite by far. You get to see every room bar two and even the kitchens all decked out. Every room is done up to look just like it would have when the ladies lived there, complete with flower arrangements and flickering fires, just beautiful, and it is here where you can see the original worn tiles!

Not as large as the first two by far but way more impressive to me. The grounds contain the immense gardens, farming quarters, motes, a MAZE (unfortunately closed for winter) and the chateau is actually built across the River Cher. During WWII when France was occupied by Germany the house was used to move people from the north side of the river to freedom on the south bank as the river marked the line of demarcation.

I loved visiting these places as a tourist and seeing the rooms in all their splendor, especially at Chenonceau, but also thought that surely these huge buildings and gardens could be put to better use than just being tourist attractions. Some are used for formal functions but it would be amazing if they also used them for housing the needy or renting out for charity. Obviously I don’t know how all the space is used but from what I can see there is a lot of wasted space, even now, where rooms are empty and not made up for viewing as they once were.

Since seeing the chateaus we have spent a couple of nights in a gorgeous little town called Montrichard, it had a really great feeling here and we had a perfect little camping spot next to the river. We also got to have another swim and shower here. I usually remember places by what I ate there, this has changed drastically because I think some of the places I’ll remember most are the places I got to have a shower! We’ve also made our way out to La Rochelle on the coast, down past Bordeaux and now in Arcachon. Will keep you updated!

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album CHATEAUS.

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