ZION NATIONAL PARK AND A REST AT BRYCE CANYON

We head northeast out of Nevada and into Arizona, briefly, then into Utah, a semi arid landscape of rolling rugged hills. We are heading for Zion National Park, highly anticipated. The days are closing early and we have stopped at a gallery that we make more purchases at, not sure how these will pack, so are heading into the park as darkness descends. We head to the first come first serve South Campground to grab a spot and meet the very pleasant camp hosts who help us find one of the few sights left. It is perfectly flat and near to a very nicely kept toilet block, lucky. The sun sets over the mouth of a spectacular canyon of craggy mountains towering above us and the colours are amazing, one of the highlights of this park. We are full of anticipation for the next day.

Let me give you a background on Zion. We have spent a lot of time lately in the parks that showcase the mighty power of earth and all her forces. We have seen effects of the rupturing strength pushing the ancient layers skyward creating spectacular landscapes, some once the floor of huge oceans. We have experienced the power of glacial ice carving, cracking the earth apart. Now we are in a landscape that was essentially huge sand dunes deposited and then compressed into rock over the ages, through which a river system has carved a spectacular landscape.

In Zion one is at ground level with the mountain cliffs sheering upward, a vision of rocks, some smooth and rounded by the power of water and others craggy massive blocks that defy gravity. The Virgin River constantly flows through this landscape continuing to sculpt a wonderful world for all visitors to see, over 3 million a year, all craning their necks upward to experience this stupendous landscape.

This is an area largely developed by the Mormons who came west and populated and broke the land into viable fertile farms that provided a harsh but special life out west. The area surrounding the park is still ‘ranching’ land that we have loved driving through to get this far, with livestock roaming the huge expanse of acres. It is an area full of various gems and rocks of beauty which are displayed for sale at numerous outlets along our journey, rocks we would love to be able to return home with but alas this would be impossible.

We awake early but don’t rush to jump up, it is freezing. Eventually we walk down to the visitor’s center to start our explorations. The majority of this park runs off a road that snakes its way for 18 miles up the canyon. Because it is one way in and the same way out the park has devised a shuttle bus system to try to decongest the area. At this time of year the buses only run on the weekends, and it being Sunday we are obliged to take the shuttle. We spend the day jumping on and off and taking the small hikes to see the sights, along with many others.

It has all been gorgeous, but on reflection that evening we feel we have not done this park justice. There is a highly recommended 4/5 hour hike called Angels Landing, a switchback climb that takes you 1500 feet up the mountain at which point a challenging climb begins out to the top of a huge rocky buttress. We decide this is what we need to do and, after a good nights rest and securing our site for yet another night, we set off to greater heights.

We have spent our coldest night yet in Jetson, how do we know that, the ice on the inside of the car is a good guide. We are soon warming up though as the steep climb unfolds. We eventually reach the challenging part. It is time to get over the fact that it is a very long way down and grab onto a seemingly well attached substantial chain that is a small comfort as one edges their way over smooth sandstone sloping cliff edges traversing around the side of the cliff, eventually coming to a large flat area. This is the spot that decisions need to be made. Some say anyone who gets this far has done really well but from here one can see the real challenge. Angels Landing is actually a huge buttress across a narrow saddle that actually heads down from our present position and then ascends seemingly straight up for quite a climb. We take our time to decide along with many other hikers, taking advice from those on their way down on how tough it actually is. It seems it is more than doable, the general advice being just do it at your own pace. It is decided to head on to complete the challenge.

The chains once again aid the short distance downward and I decide if I can get back up this part I can probably do it all. Guess what, I could, so we continue. At first the edges seem very close and we move with trepidation but eventually it is all about the climb and not about the view, which comes later as a reward.

We eventually reach the top, about 3 hours from our starting point at the car. The view is amazing on the rocky outcrop, not the highest point in the canyon, but definitely one of the most scenic. We meet a very lovely local couple, he has been a wild beach bum Californian traveler in his early years and she is a woman apparently scared of heights, though you certainly wouldn’t guess that, who has completed her second climb to this point. They tell us about the pros and cons of other hikes in the park and yet more history of the area and are really interesting to talk to. We grab a bite to eat and take some amazing photos in glorious sunshine. After about an hour we decide it is time to take the challenge of the decent, something that is in the back of your mind all the way up, how the hell am I going to get down?

In 50 minutes we are back at the decision point, I have spent quite a lot of time on my backside feeling much more connected to earth this way. It has actually not been that bad and we are now the ones encouraging others to keep on going. The biggest trouble was the wind that sprung up just as we were starting our decent, a major danger as you can actually be blown off the mountain. Did I mention there is a sign reminding people to do this at their own risk, 6 having died trying. We have been so lucky again with the weather.

We return to the valley floor 5 hours from beginning and are pleased with our efforts and make our way to the general store just outside the park, ravenous. We have discovered their home made treats and their free to use microwave for campers like us, haha. We devour our hot treats back at our campsite as the sun sets again. We reluctantly endure our cold water washes to clean away the days dust before slipping into our comfortable PJ’s. Not going to be any trouble getting to sleep tonight, though we have rented a DVD, Cast Away, and enjoy watching Tom Hanks and Wilson battle the elements before we call it a night.

Not quite as cold, but still ice on the inside of the windscreen, when we wake to start a day moving on to yet another famous National Park, Bryce Canyon. It is with regret that we move on from Zion knowing now about some other lovely hikes we could have done. This is one of our favorite parks so far and think we should make another visit one day.

Sadly the cold I have started is taking it’s toll, picked up in Vegas somewhere, and energy levels are low. It is a beautiful 60 mile drive to Bryce, so close and yet we are in for a quite different landscape. There will be no long hikes today but we are very lucky in our destination. Bryce is a park that takes in the view from the rim of the Colorado Plateau, spectacular vistas laid before you over this dominantly orange world of hoodoos and windows and other wondrous sculptures. Once again this is a world carved by the elements of wind and water into the sandy stone that has been pushed skyward and is the Plateau. We are treated to easy walks to amazing views, just the trick for our failing energy levels. We are back in snow-covered landscape on the high plateau and it is pretty chilly, though sunny.

More motel time needed is the decision made and we leave the park and the touristy villages and find a very small, almost non-existent in fact, town that has a 3-story hotel with a vacancy sign, The Grand Staircase Inn in Cannonville. We book a very reasonable night and settle in and it is so good that we end up staying 3 nights and not even walking further than the front desk for all this time. Our last day is actually Thanksgiving and we are really thankful to have found this gem in the desert. The family run business is just fantastic. I think the thing that made it so good was the room having a very high vaulted ceiling and king size beds. This probably sounds really strange but it created so much space that we have obviously been missing in our subconscious. Thanks to the Grand Staircase Inn, we will recommend a stay to as many as possible.

The other bonus of downtime is that this blog sees us completely caught up to real time, WOW. We are very pleased with our efforts as we venture on, hopefully with renewed energy. We are sadly running very low on time now and still lots to see. This area is full of National Parks and we will try to see as many as possible with some that are a priority.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album NATIONAL PARKS OF UTAH.

LAS VEGAS MADNESS

As we have spoken to people along the way we have mentioned Las Vegas as one of our destinations and in general the comment has been “do not hold that against us”, haha. As our day of splendor in Death Valley ends we head out of the hills and before us lies a mass of light, out in the middle of nowhere, that sparkles and twinkles on the horizon. As we sink into its midst we are amazed at the brightness and grandeur of this unique city. We settle into our hotel that is very cheap, just off ‘the strip’, and crash, excited about what is to come over the next few days. Vegas is known as a pit of gambling and sin, bright lights and recreations of world icons, a must see that many will tell you to avoid.

Our first day we decide to go out to Hoover Dam. This is quite a feat of human excellence. It was built between 1931 and 1936 giving employment to 21,000 people during the Great Depression. Sadly it cost the lives of 100 men during this time. It is built in the Black Canyon on the Colorado River on the border, literally, of Arizona and Nevada. During our visit we lost an hour crossing the dam wall into Arizona and gained it back on our return to Nevada. The surrounding ground is made up of rock of volcanic origin making it hard and very durable. The structure of the dam is like a whole lot of concrete Lego blocks varying in size that are reinforced and joined together and grouted to give its smooth appearance. It is said that there is enough concrete within the structure to pave a road from San Francisco to New York, now that’s a lot of concrete.

In creating this dam and the hydroelectric power plant, still one of the largest in the country but once the largest in the world, a massive body of water was created, now known as the Lake Mead National Recreation Area. It provides over 9 million visitors a year with all sorts of water based sports and activities. All in all this is a tourist destination of National pride, being the largest dam of it’s time and still considered to be one of Americas’ Seven Civil Engineering Wonders. Needless to say we enjoyed our visit and also very much enjoyed just heading back to a motel to refresh before we made our first visit to ‘the strip’.

Bright lights and crazy images of grandeur and also some crazy people. This has to be the most interesting city we have been to, not in an architectural way or a learned way but in an out there kind of way. There are many shows you can go to from show girls to Cirque du Soleil to Santana and Rod Stewart, love him but saw him back in Perth only a couple of years ago, and many, many more but we have decided to save our pennies and just take in the show that is Las Vegas. The streets are lined with buskers of varying talents, singers, artists, show girls and musicians, some fantastic and others just bazaar. There are the homeless people down on their luck just begging, but not too many. There are some people just dressed up as movie characters or stars that have their photos taken. Then there are others that seem rather sad as they are dressed to attract attention baring all, their costumes grubby and lurid and their demeanor affected by substances. These people we feel sad for, is this what life intended for them, though they seem happy enough?

There are hundreds of hawkers selling tickets, women and bars. The general atmosphere is party town and the lights and grandeur of the many casinos show a world of fun and excitement. It is a town of stretch limousine’s, never seen so many in one street before. There seems to be loads of tourists just taking it all in like us. Lots of families out and about clutching many bags from the M&M store and other themed outlets, girls in higher than high heals that are more often than not in their hands. Young and old mix together to create a fantastic world for people watching.

We venture into quite a few of the casinos and hotels to just take a look at this colourful world and are amazed that Mikayla is allowed to walk through, at 16. The casinos are huge and all have quite a large clientele. We think about the one casino we have in Perth in comparison to the hundreds here and boggle at the thought of how many people are in this city of lights in the middle of the desert. How do they all make enough to survive?

Hotels range from the average to the spectacular, from a New York City skyline, Paris and the Eiffel Tower to the land of Fantasia to Hooters and Super 8, but there are some special spots you just have to see, one of them being the Bellagio. First we head inside to soak up the gorgeous richly decorated spacious interior, probably just a little more expensive than the motel we stay in just around the corner. This is a fantasy world decorated for fall with talking trees, a waterwheel, unicorns, pumpkins and flowers galore, just gorgeous. But all that spectacular extravagance is nothing compared to the water show that is played to music every half an hour at the front entrance. WOW. This is the best show we have seen anywhere, thousands of gallons of water pumped by the second into the air in time to all sorts of music from Singing in the Rain to Top 40 hits. Our first show is to a song that talks of footprints on the world, what could be more apt for us. We are amazed and liken it to fireworks but agree it is perhaps even better. We take in three full shows over our time on the first night before we decide our feet and minds have had enough for one day and crash back into our beds.

We decide we would like to stay yet another night and pop out to get in supplies for lunch, taking our time to just enjoy our own little space and then we head into the movies, this day being the first release of Mockingjay Part One, third movie in The Hunger Games series. Being huge movie fans we are excited to see this follow on and love it. We have timed our visit to end in darkness so we can begin our next night on the strip, heading for the other end of the strip to explore new territory. We stop in at the famous shopping complex, Fashion Show, and spend some time trying on clothes, each finding something nice at a bargain price to add to the ever stretching suitcase, in Macy’s.

We then set off back into the bright lights and head for the other absolute must see hotel of The Venetian and its gondolas. Outside there is yet another spectacular show to see, this time fire. Out of this world burning red hot orange plumes of fire and sparks dance into the night skies every half-hour, amazing. Fatigue is starting to set in again but we must have another couple of Bellagio water shows before we call it a night, our last night here having had our fill of the wondrous, many faced city that is Las Vegas.

It’s not all fantastic but it is unique. Some will visit over and over and some will just see it once because you just have to see it to believe it. Some will lose a fortune and decline to the streets, sadly, and others will just take in the sights and shows and wonder who on earth came up with the idea of this entertainment mecca. You can do it on a budget or go all out. It is a place for everyone yet is probably one of the most transient places in the country. Our time has been fantastic fun but we are now ready to head back to nature where the only lights are the stars in the sky and the spectacular sunset/sunrise vistas provided in this amazing neck of the woods, oh I forgot, we have left the trees behind, its all rocks now.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album LAS VEGAS AND HOOVER DAM – NEVADA.

FANTASTICAL FUN AT UNIVERSAL ORLANDO

This is the world of theme parks and, after much discussion and advice from those who have been here before, we decided that Universal was the place for us. Our first day is at Universal Studios, OH MY GOD WHAT A DAY. Here we are in a world that will shake, rattle, roll, spin, scare and speed you through the most amazing experiences. We start with the good old fashioned roller coaster. It’s fantastic! From there we live through the worlds of Shrek, Minions, Transformers, Wizards and Aliens. Even on the ground you are transported into other worlds, taking in a little Blues Brothers and Hollywood magic.

Our favorite world is not a Hollywood creation but boy they have done it well, Diagon Alley from Harry Potter. As we wonder through we imagine purchasing our needs for a year at Hogwarts and take a lunch break at The Leaky Cauldron, washing it down with a Butter Beer. Of course we have already withdrawn our galleons from the very special Gringotts bank with the help of some gorgeous goblins and a very special Dragon. Ah, the magic.

The afternoon is taken up with the Men In Black ride, not everyone’s favourite, and The Simpson’s Krusty the Clown ride that had us laughing the whole time including during the wait in line. We couldn’t leave without another visit to Diagon Alley and Gringotts, the best ride at Universal, and were lucky enough to catch Celestina Warbeck singing on stage, though we didn’t spot Molly Weasley in the crowd.

We take in an animal show with many specially trained creatures of the furry and feathered kind, including Marley from Marley and Me. Back to a little more adventure and into the world of Transformers, what a ride, rip roaring, stomach churning thrills as we save the world from evil one more time.

My stomach has done enough for one day but the girls decide to go back for more at both Transformers and Gringotts. Our senses have finally been pulverized enough for one day and we stagger on to look at the Universal City Walk of restaurants and evening entertainment before a cooling stroll back to our hotel where we collapse into bed.

Sunrise hits and we jump back up into the world of Islands of Adventure, two special islands devoted to more fun. These world concentrate on the cartoons of old and Super Heroes. We start the day with a new roller coaster, The Hulk, even better than yesterdays. We may have been a little park weary but this soon fired up the desire for fun and fear.

We decide to save the water rides for later in the day and head through Jurassic park. Then we move on to more Harry Potter fun. This time we enter into Hogsmead and eventually into the dungeons of Hogwarts Castle. Words can not describe the wonder as we watch and overhear the conversations between the moving paintings gossiping about the goings on at Hogwarts. Harry, Ron and Hermione appear from under the invisibility cloak and hatch a wonderful plan to transport us away from boring classes to be involved in the service of catching a snitch and other daring deeds for Professor Dumbledore.

Our ride is the best one yet and we emerge back onto the Hogsmead streets exhilarated and starving. The Three Broomsticks soon solves this problem. We ride a very terrifying dragon next and admire the Hogwarts Express, clouded in steam at the station.

We exit the exciting magical world and pause for a moment at a very special, very old talking rock. Children stop to have a little conversation and a delightful cooling off with Cosmo, their looks of wonder and astonishment as entertaining as anything we have done.

A little down time is the order of the hour and we wander on to The Cat In the Hat, Dr Seuss, world of fantasy, riding a very sedate overhead train looking on such colour and beauty, transporting us back into our childhood memories. A magnificent Merry Go Round full of magical creatures completes the experience. The batteries recharged by the beautiful world and lots of sunshine sees us ready to face the water rides.

As we tumble, slip, slide, scream and float our way through the Looney Tune creations we laugh uncontrollably as we and our fellow travelers are soaked to the skin and refreshed. Spider Man and Twister are last and though we have a new burst of energy it is only enough to transport us back through the streets of super heroes back into the real world and home before we crash in a heap, our body and minds overloaded with frivolity, fear and fabulous experiences. And we’re thankful for the stunning weather we had for both days at this wonderful place.

Wrapping up our Orlando experience is a little contradiction. NASA is trying its hardest to explore the universe and find life other than ours. In “reality” at Universal we seem to have found lots of life other than ours in the shape of fantastic monsters that we are spending a lot of energy trying to save the world from. Who has it right, and should we just be happy with seeing “stars”. On with the adventure I say.

Photos can be found on our Facebook Page in the album FLORIDA.

USA PHOTOS

We’ve finally uploaded all the best photos from our time in the USA so far, bar Washington DC (coming soon).

They can be found on our Facebook page in the albums below, just click on the place to see!

FLORIDA

GEORGIA AND SOUTH CAROLINA

GREAT SMOKY MOUNTAINS AND BLUE RIDGE PARKWAY

NEW YORK

KENNEDY SPACE CENTRE

Have had a few computer issues so have not managed to post as fast as we would like, we have been writing though so stay tuned. Hope to catch up soon with our recent travels in USA and watch out for a few post entries about our time in Scotland.

We have made our way up toward Orlando and first stop is the Space Centre another awe inspiring place. First thing is the bus tour around the Cape Canaveral facility. Very polite and informative guides divulge a torrent of information regarding the past, present and future plans for the mobile launch pads. It is quite extraordinary to imagine the moments before a launch and all the planning that comes down to a moment in time counting down to the lift off of a rocket. We are shown the amazing Crawlers that transport the rockets from their birth places in the huge buildings with the largest automatic doors in the world.

Half way around the center you are dropped off at a building that takes you on a journey through the actual Apollo Control Centre and shows the footage of the first Apollo mission launched. It’s quite amazing to see the actual place where history has been made over and over again. Another door opens and their is an actual rocket suspended from the ceiling with so much information to absorb about this amazing Space Program that saw a total of 12 American astronauts get to walk on the moon. A small number but such a huge achievement.

Delivered back to the main center there is so much more to learn and see. We start with the Shuttle exhibition, another massive building that holds the actual Shuttle Atlantis, displayed in all its glory with, shall we say, warts and all. She is just as she was on her retirement after a final trip into space and re entering the earths atmosphere. The Shuttle program is now over after millions of space miles traveled by these incredible inventions and their amazing crews. As I said WOW. Here we take a ride in a launch simulator and get a taste of the “g” forces and shakes and rattles endured to break out of our atmosphere into the universe beyond.

And how big is this ancient world? We take a look at the Hubble Telescope exhibit and are inspired by the vastness. We learn of all the problems overcome to produce the most spectacular photos you have ever seen, taken of events that took place light years before. Stars being born and dying and other complete solar systems, it is all jaw dropping, fantastic. A short drive takes us to the Astronaut Hall of Fame and paying tribute to the amazing human beings that have been in space and looked back at earth in all her splendor, especially those who did not get to return.

Oh, how I wish I could do this one day. The over riding theme of the entire day is that young children have looked up at the stars in the sky and wondered how to get there, and some have made it a little way closer than others. It is with great passion that the Space Programs that have gone before have come to success, and sometimes failure and loss of passionate lives. It is a Universal passion that now sees an International Space Station take in visitors and let them live in Space. How far we have come BUT how far we still have to go.

NASA talks to the young whilst they explore this amazing world looking for those pioneers of the future who know it is their destiny to reach for the stars. As these facilities open their doors to the world of private enterprise one wonders what the future holds. How long will it take to probe further than man has ever gone before? Will there be a bus trip to the Moon one day soon? Will we find a planet that will sustain human life? Will there already be other life forms out there? It is the stuff of dreams that one day will be reality? Go NASA and all the International Space Programs, make it all happen!

Full of new information and trivia, did you know Barbie was invented the same year that we first put a man into space? We leave inspired. We absolutely loved the time line of all the missions and what else was happening in the world, what songs the Beatles were releasing, the famous stars that were being born and sadly those who left this life, the political scandals of the day, the wonderful inventions released. So much to learn our heads were spinning, we recommend you just go do it one day and you will know what I mean.

Our day ends and we head on to Orlando to begin a new adventure. On the way we are ‘treated’ to rain Florida style. It just falls like a sheet and just doesn’t stop. It is a slow, tense trip as you can literally only see a vague shape ahead with little red lights. We sit in the traffic as it moves at glacier pace and hope that the weather is better the next day, we’d rather do Universal in the sunshine!

FIRST FORAY INTO FLORIDA

USA here we come. It’s been a mad few days getting packed but we are ready, willing and able to fly. Luckily for us Graham is so wonderful and has taken a day off to drive us to Gatwick, rather a long way from Chelmsford and not good with traffic either.

He is the perfect person to give us last minute advice about America and safely deliver us to check in although he is still skeptical at the weight of our bags. We say goodbye with the comforting knowledge that he will pick us up on our return.

After a fairly uneventful flight on a brand new Dream Liner, we touch down in Florida. We find our bags, and sympathize with one couple who could not find theirs, and head for the car rental. We are offered a very good deal to upgrade our vehicle so instead of a Rav4 we settle into a Chrysler with enough space to sleep in when we are out in the National Parks so we’re off to a very good start.

I quickly get used to being back on the right hand side of the road but this time in a left hand drive. There’s always something new to learn.

The car is so quiet we wonder if the engine is even going. Vincent has conditioned us to so many rattles and squeaks it is strange to travel in such luxury, but that’s not saying we can’t get used to it! We arrive at our hotel just before 12 AM, luckily, and find it to be quite acceptable. A shower, toilet and a clean comfy bed are all that is required.

After a good nights sleep we head off to Miami taking in the coast, beach, shopping precinct and the Art Deco scene, all lovely. We are grateful our new car has air-conditioning, as the humidity is very high.

We arrive at another hotel much nicer than the first and we decide to book for a couple of nights so we can spend a day venturing out to Key West and then another in the Everglades.

The trip to Key West takes about 3 hours as you make your way along a thin causeway of strips of land and long bridges. The views are spectacular of an ocean that is dead flat for as far as you can see dotted with gorgeous green islands. We also see our first big “thing” on this drive. A huge shrimp and the first of many to come we assume.

Half your time is spent in towns surrounded by countless shops and advertising but the rest is lovely. Key West is right at the end with lovely beaches and lots of tourists. We take in the lovely architecture of the Deep South, weatherboards galore, and the interesting array of people and vehicles.

Motorbikes and cars cruise along with music pounding, setting a scene that anything goes. The drive back is just as lovely as we stop to swim on one of the few public beaches; the coast is taken up with hotels and private properties. The water is not clear and really warm so not refreshing, and we spot a huge jelly fish so only end up half way in. Different to what we’re used to, the water is not so salty and feels soft on your skin.

Our next day we head into the Everglades and learn about the flora and fauna of this spectacular wetlands, including the alligator. We spot a couple and note the difference to our crocodiles; it seems to fit between the salty and the freshy being narrow but long. They are spectacular and you can only imagine how many live in the watery grassland waiting for unsuspecting prey.

It is a beautiful National Park, a little similar than Kakadu and we learn how the overflow from Lake Okeechobee creates the flow of the water back to the sea, mainly by way of the Shark slough, a wide but shallow river. It is in a delicate balance as human expansion demands more water to be taken from the Everglades creating change and not for the better. At least measures are being taken to preserve this unique area, relatively young in fact, and hopefully to last so much longer.