Sadly we awake to a not so favorable weather report for the coming days. Precipitation is on the cards. We are embarking on a scenic route, one of America’s oldest and most revered, US 550, that is a mountain trail that comprises 3 passes over 10,500ft, the largest being Red Mountain at over 11,500ft. It is known as the Million Dollar Highway. This classic stretch of two-lane, no barriers road, forms a swirling ribbon through the San Juan Mountains, the wildest and most rugged peaks in the Colorado Rockies.
The origin of the “Million Dollar” name is clouded in myth. Some say it was first used after an early traveller, complaining of the vertigo-inducing steepness of the route, said, “I wouldn’t go that way again if you paid me a million dollars.” Others claim that it derives simply from the actual cost of paving the route in the 1930s. But the favourite explanation is also the most likely: when the highway was first constructed, the builders used gravel discarded by nearby gold and silver mines, only to find out later that this dirt was actually rich in ore and worth an estimated “million dollars.”
The route used primarily follows the one carved by a pioneer Polish Postie named Otto Mears. Suffice to say we are a little worried about the conditions on the road but decide to press on anyway, mad Australians. You know the saying ‘damned if you do and damned if you don’t’, well that is how the morning went. We were watching for signs of tire chains on the traffic passing us in the other direction but saw none, knowing these are not something we have on board.
As the trail got higher the rain turned into snow and it was evident by the new fall that we were the only ones going in our direction. Going at a ‘glacial pace’ we traversed this winding surface whilst to our side was a certain death drop into air. Negotiating passing a couple of snow ploughs going the other way was heart stopping to say the least. Should we press on or not is the topic of conversation.
We eventually get to the Red Mountain pass and have crossed to the other side of the mountain, putting us away from the edge for the majority of the time, and we decide we are probably over the worst, so we push on. Thank goodness we did. What an amazing road this is, dotted with a couple of pretty little tourist towns, but majority wild mountains covered in snow decorated spruce and pine with snow white ground and magnificent views. Though the view would definitely be more distant without the falling snow and low hanging clouds, what we experience is spectacular, wild and just gorgeous. It’s a good job we are a little crazy!
After two more high passes we are eventually heading down hill for the last time and into a more sedate landscape. Next stop Mesa Verdi. We reach the visitors centre about 2pm and are advised to head straight out to the Museum and the only open ruin available to visit at this time of year, Spruce House, for a 3pm guided tour. So off we go through the winding mesa to the end of the road, approximately 20miles into the park. Just in time we head off with our guide down about 100m along an easy walkway to start our learning experience of this national treasure. Along the way we learn how the cliff dwellings were largely left inaccessible with only a toe hold climb down the cliff.
The Ancestral Pueblo people, and their descendants, inhabited Mesa Verde for more than 700 years (550 A.D. to 1300 A.D.), but for the first six centuries, they primarily lived on the mesa tops. It was not until the final 75 to 100 years that they constructed and lived in the cliff dwellings for which Mesa Verde is known. It is believed that they began living beneath the cliffs to improve their shelter from the ever increasing severity of the harsh conditions in the area, or perhaps for defence though there is hardly any evidence of fighting or threat between these peoples. Basically they were suffering major drought and finding supporting themselves very hard, we are talking of communities in the thousands.
These were primarily a farming people who over these centuries moved from excellent basket weavers to sophisticated pottery craftsmen famous for their black on white designs and from pole and adobe builders into skilled stone masonry craftsmen. The canyons selected for their new abodes were the ones that had natural seep springs that could give them a small water supply, it is believed that this was only equivalent to a litre per day. Their only other water source was the river a few miles away. There is also evidence of trade with objects from other parts of the nation such as shells and turquoise and also cotton, none of which occur naturally in this area.
Spruce House, the third largest cliff dwelling (Cliff Palace and Long House are larger), was constructed between A.D. 1211 and 1278 by the ancestors of the Puebloan peoples of the Southwest. The dwelling contains about 130 rooms and 8 kivas (kee-vahs), or ceremonial chambers, built into a natural alcove measuring 216 feet (66 meters) at greatest width and 89 feet (27 meters) at its greatest depth. It is thought to have been home for about 60 to 80 people. It is an excellent example of the exceptional masonry ability of these people and shows the way they plastered the interiors in mainly yellow and pink, and also some drawn decoration.
Our guide continues to give us interesting information about these very intelligent peoples that toiled against the elements to survive. The mortality rate of the children up to 5 was 50% due, primarily, to infestation of worms caught from their domesticated animals, turkeys and dogs. Otherwise it is thought that they lived to around 35 with some evidence of 50 to 60 year olds. All our knowledge today has been gathered by study of the relics left. The date of building is concluded from the timber that is still preserved within the structures. Fortunately for us, the Puebloans used to just throw their rubbish over the edge of their cliff homes leaving us a garbage heap of knowledge. Because they did not have a written language there is some guesswork involved in concluding their politics and day-to-day community existence.
Contrary to popular belief, the Ancestral Puebloan people of Mesa Verde did not disappear. They migrated south to New Mexico and Arizona, and became today’s modern pueblo people. To conclude our time in this area we move up to the museum enjoying all the relics on display. There are no human remains as about 20 years ago these were returned to the peoples for private burial. Before the sun sets we head out to see the dwellings preserved on the top of the mesa, showing how they developed small villages of houses all in a row and also more traditional kivas. This is an amazing place of such importance in the preservation of an ancient civilization. Well done to Wetherill brothers who made their discoveries in 1888 and didn’t stop campaigning until they convinced the government to dedicate this area as a national park in 1906. In 1978 Mesa Verdi joined a select group of UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Sites. Lucky for us who get to experience this history.
Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album COLORADO.
Here We Come World 