Another flashback to our time in Scotland, the day Caroline climbed Ben Nevis.
The end of this adventure is to tackle the highest mountain in the UK, Ben Nevis. We get to the Visitors Center mid afternoon and are a little disappointed to hear the weather forecast for the next day is quite poor, but alas we are too late to do it this day as we would be coming down in the dark, not a desirable for our first attempt.
We camp in the car park and decide on an early start to try to beat the bad weather coming in. It turns out that there are people coming in right into the night as we see a torch or two traverse the car park with a weary climber. Awake at five and it is already raining quite heavily so we have another hour in the warm and try again when the weather seems to have cleared a little.
We finally decide to head off at 7.15am. Now, this mountain is divided into three sections and the first is a steep climb over a path of boulders set as steps. It is hard going and sadly it starts to become apparent that Mikayla is not very well. She hadn’t wanted to say anything but was progressively worsening and eventually we have to make a decision that she and Georgia would return to Vincent and I would go on as far as I could. They have made it nearly half way and are very disappointed to have to turn back. I might add that because of the constant drizzle we are already soaked even though we are quite warm.
I continue on and enjoy a break in the weather and the climb as I pass the easiest part of the trail past the Loch, it is so gorgeous. Then starts the second section of the shale zig zags. The climb is steep and still I am warm as toast even in just a t-shirt. As I plod ever upwards I start to meet some climbers coming down and they advise me that it under an hour to the top but that it is freezing up there. A couple more zigzags and I hit the biting wind and it is time to put on the layers.
The climb turns into a scramble over large boulders, past the ice trap and then a difficult path between the cairns. Vision is poor as the rain has really set in up here and I am strangely quite alone at this point. There have been people on the track all the way but for this final accent it is just me and I can only just see the next cairn, the only way to make out the trail. It is quite an adventure as I imagine what it would be like to get lost in this wilderness and how very cold a night alone would be up here.
No wonder this mountain claims a few lives every year, to be unprepared would be madness and even with everything organized a weather change could be disastrous. The top seems to be taking a long time to reach, I am now about four hours into my journey and eventually reach the top. I have a few moments alone to take a photo of myself and the top beacon, and off the cliff edge. I can only see about three meters down the cliff face before the cloud invades but it is clear it is not the best path down! A wrong step up here could be quite a big one.
Quite suddenly there is an influx of fellow climbers and we are all congratulating one another for reaching the top, some are first timers like myself but others are repeat offenders, one man on his seventh ascent. Well done to everyone. It is not pleasant up here, visibility is next to nothing, there is a howling gale and it is freezing and wet and I decide it is time to head back down. It has not been about the view since about half way but about the challenge. Now I face the challenge of getting back to Vincent.
The top stage takes its toll quite quickly and my knees are complaining. Once I reach the top of the zigzags I am treated to about half an hour of sunshine and a clear view of the world around, I stop to eat my supplies and chat to some climbers on the way up. They have a while to go and I advise them that it is harder to come down than go up. Everyone seems to agree on this point. I have been able to take of a few layers and dry out the gloves and beanie in the constant wind. I am now thinking the decent would be lovely if it stayed like this.
Sadly I have been too optimistic and as I reach the bottom of the zigzags the weather sets in worse than ever. I am about half way down and the path is treacherous and slow and my legs are screaming. The rest of the journey is agony and at times I wonder why I am here. I am once again drenched to the skin, it is a rain that by-passes the very best waterproofs. My feet are just puddles but my boots keep me safe on the slippery boulders and muddy track. There are some young men that run pass me, Oh to have those knees again.
I slosh on at my very steady pace and I wonder about the poor soles that had still been climbing upward. I am also so very grateful for the week of sunshine we have had previously to enjoy the highlands, the views would not have happened in this, how lucky we are. At about 4.15pm I knock on Vincents door and exclaim to the girls that I think I am about to die. I head off to the loo while they prepare for my recovery treatment. I also stop in at the visitors center to let the ladies know I did it. Congratulations are received with thanks and we discuss the various spots on the mountain, it seems everyone finds coming down the hard part and I am glad it is not just me. I am still able to laugh though and am pleased to have conquered Ben Nevis.
I meet a guide, and very experienced climber, that is taking a group of climbers up at midnight, “why would you do that?” is all I can respond. He thinks it’s crazy too, what a way to make a living. Back to Vincent and the girls have the hot water ready. Hair washed and body bathed they guide me under the covers and provide me with hot water bottles (thank you Maggy, I think you saved my life). We are going to have to stay another night in the car park as I could not drive, and wonder if my legs will ever manage this task again.
While the girls provide me with food they also fill me in on their day. By the time they got back to the car they were both very ill with a stomach issue, say no more. It is so lucky they turned back when they did, at least they had managed to make a recovery and get warm and prepare for my return. I don’t think Vincent would have coped with three drowned rats at once.
When I wake in the morning I am scared to move, wondering if this is indeed even possible. My need to get to the loo gives me the motivation and I am very relieved to find that it is not as bad as I thought it might be. No real damage has been done it seems, just some aches and pains to recover from over the next few days. The girls are relieved when I seem relatively normal, not sure I was making much sense the night before.
We now have to try to sort out Vincent. He is water logged with wet jackets and clothes and just invaded by the constant water flow outside. We get on the road and crank up the heater and start to dry him out. The next day sees the return of some sunshine so by about day three we have everything back to normal. What would we do without our precious Vincent, our little home away from home.
We continue traveling south back into England and soon reached the Lake District. It had been our intention to complete the three peaks of the UK, Snowdon and Ben Nevis conquered and Scaffle Pyke to go. Sadly the legs are not recovered enough to go up the last one after only three days so will have to save that for another trip.
We can console ourselves with our meandering through the Lake district enjoying such a beautiful part of England. The weather holds quite well and the scenery is just gorgeous and we get to visit the part of the world that Beatrix Potter loved so much. As we are mad BP fans we enjoy soaking up all the information we can. We visit her husbands law office first and are treated to passionate guides that give us a little more insight into her life. We gaze on lots of her original drawing and sketches. We then head out to Hill Top and experience an eccentric world that she created to work from. We can just imagine Peter and all his friends popping up in the garden. It is a magical journey we thoroughly enjoy. We look across the fields to her marital home and imagine her plodding across to work with her friends in tow. We are glad to hear that the movie made of her life is almost all accurate, though she did not know her husband as a child. A small amount of creative license is acceptable. Our passion for this wonderful writer will continue on and I look forward to reading to my grandchildren the stories their mothers loved so much.
It is time to head south toward Devon and it takes a few more days to drive through the green lanes and on a couple of high ways till we are back with family. What a great adventure we have had again and we look forward to coming back in the years to come and explore some more.
This brings the England adventure all up to date. The final days with family have already been posted on Sep 25th if you would like a flash back update. All posts from now on for a couple of months with be from USA and our adventures in this wonderful country. Some are already up and will endeavor to be up to date very soon. Madly adventuring and writing is really hard work you know.
Here We Come World 