CRATER LAKE OREGON

Flashback to the stunning blue Crater Lake, Oregon, where we visited about two weeks ago. Hope the weather is still as perfect for those visiting now as it was for us! You can check it here.

From Vancouver, Washington, we set ourselves a driving day to finish at Crater Lake. This is a spectacular lake formed after the collapse of an ancient volcano, known as Mountt Mazama, which erupted about 7,700 years ago. The top 5,000ft collapsed and was sealed by lava creating a lake that is the deepest in USA at 1,932ft. The water in the lake is provided only by snow and precipitation and delivers the clearest water you can imagine, in fact its proven to be some of the purest on earth. The lake is 6 miles across and even has its own island, Wizard Island, a volcano within a volcano. The park experiences an average yearly snowfall of 44ft, keeping the lake topped up. The lake is a centrepiece to a magnificent park of mountain peaks and alpine forest, waterfalls, gorges and ravines, cascading rapids and volcanic potholes.

Our driving day sees us reach the lake rim just after sunset, our first glimpses by glowing light of the moon over this stunning water, an eerie stillness as blackness descends. We find what we think is a campground and begin to set up, later to be asked very politely by two police officers to move along with directions given to a campsite back down the hill.

Back to the rim in the early morning we watch the changing colours as the sun rises in the sky. Words cannot describe the steel blueness of this pure water and the light changes of the volcanic lava sides of the crater. There is not a cloud in this perfect blue sky, luck being on our side yet again as at this time of the year the visibility is usually extremely poor, in fact this day it would descend into cloud by 10am.

The rim road is closed due to snow, though it seems that has melted away again. Wizard Island takes on many different hues in the changing light. We take a hike up to one of the highest vantage points of the rim and enjoy a view so majestic and tranquil. On our return to the base we visit the Rim gift shop and find a few additions to the suitcase, whoops.

As we start to leave the weather is turning and we have had the best of the day at the lake. We spend a couple more hours stopping at the waterfalls and rushing cascades of the river carving its way through the volcanic rock. It is interesting to see the natural bridge where the water disappears underground for about 60m through a volcanic tunnel. Whilst walking these vantage points we meet two local ladies and a gentleman also taking advantage of this wonderful day. We enjoy a chat for a while and then set off and choose a seemingly very popular restaurant for lunch, Beckie’s. It is always good to eat where the locals go and this is one that proves this point. Amazingly our new friends decide to stop at the same place, famous for it’s pies. We chat whilst waiting for a table and decide to lunch together. We proceed to spend a couple of lovely hours talking and laughing with Valerie, Trudy and Howard who are all just lovely people. We are told Valerie is 85, and find that hard to believe, as she is so full of energy, reminding us a lot of Nan at that age. We are given valuable advice for our next part of the journey whilst enjoying that amazing pie! Sadly we all must go our separate ways, though they have all invited us to stay with them. Though very tempted by their generous offers we have to make a hard choice to continue on knowing our time is quickly slipping away. We will keep in contact with these gorgeous friends and would love to welcome them to Perth one day.

Pushing on we head for the famous Redwood Trees, slipping quietly into Oregon and find a camping spot at Panther Flats, a gorgeous spot to end a very special day.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album OREGON

GLACIER NATIONAL PARK – CROWN OF THE CONTINENT

So we are now in Montana and finally on the home stretch to our most talked about park. We have been asking lots of locals if they thought we would make it to Glacier before the snow cuts it off and have been so lucky with a mild Autumn. We know that the Going to the Sun road is mostly closed for the higher reaches and the complete East side, though this is due mainly to road works. The park is never completely closed but many roads become impossible to pass with the snowfalls.

We traverse through wonderful lands taking a route through the Flatheads lake area and this is just beautiful. Lakes and forest hug the West side of Glacier reaching down through the Flathead Indian Reservation. It is getting really cold but we still manage to find a camping spot right on a lake in a State Forest to end a day of traveling. We wake to the retreating mists over the water chased away by a rising sun. It is the beginning of a day full of the promise of Glacier and its treasures.

This area is often called the ‘Shining Mountains’ or the ‘Backbone of the World’, Native Indian names for this spectacular region. This is the Northern end of the mighty Rocky Mountains. As the range crosses into Canada it becomes the Waterton National Peace Park. In 1995 the Waterton-Glacier National Peace Park was designated a World Heritage Site, this meaning it is considered of significant importance to the whole world. Another interesting fact is that it is home to a very rare spot where the Continental Divide meets from three different directions, the reality being that if you poured a bucket of water in this spot it would divide and be delivered in part to the West and the Pacific, the East and the Gulf of Mexico via the Mississippi and to the North to Hudson Bay. Sadly this hike is well under snow at this time of year.

This is a land that was carved by the massive glaciers of the ice age and today much smaller glaciers work on the landscape, shifting and lifting the massive slabs of rock. Like Yellowstone there are many scientific researchers working on programs within Glacier and it is another feast of opportunity to discover so many things. Sadly it is predicted that the glaciers will cease to exist by 2020 due to the climate warming. It is really a short time in which to capture a memory of the glaciers.

We head into the visitors centre for maps and, after the advice of the ranger, head around to the East side of the park first, to take in the Many Glacier trails and Two Medicine trails, before the snow comes in the afternoon. This is about a 100 mile journey to our farthest destination and it is sad that by the time we get there the snow is already falling. One particularly gorgeous part of the journey has been closed, obviously the West side ranger was not informed of this as it was one of the highlights she advised us to see and do. We have to make the decision to retrace our steps without hiking into Many Glaciers trails. Sadly it is not going to be our chance to see the glaciers here. The snow is really falling and it is not safe to venture too far. We do call in to Two Medicine, once the main entrance to the park, and enjoy the views and a picnic here before heading back around to the more mild West side.

We head into Avalanche along the Going to the Sun road and begin a series of small trails in to the sights along this valley that is Lake McDonald. This is the largest lake in the park being 10 miles long and 500 ft deep, and is the direct result of glacier carving. We are treated to spectacular vistas of waterfalls and massive carved rocks, testament to the power of the ice.

The other amazing sight here is the evidence of the 2003 wildfire that scorched through the park. Glacier experiences on average 14 fires a year burning about 5,000 acres. The 2003 fire was more devastating taking out 145,000 acres, approximately 10% of the park. Along the North side of Lake McDonald one can see the devastation of the wonderful Alpine forest, luckily the Western Red Cedar old growth in this area was spared. Fire is essential to the park as it cleans the forests and germinates new growth but this was just a little too much all at once. Still it has provided yet another area to study as regeneration takes place.

It is evident that we were probably a little too ambitious and should have stayed this side and done more walking and less driving, a lesson for the future. Still we gave it a go and really enjoyed our day of adventure, not quite what we expected and hoped for but still amazing. It is at this point that we have had to make some other tough decisions. It was in the plan to head from the East side up into Canada to take in Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper and Rogers Pass before heading back down into the States. The forecast is for a lot more snow to fall over the coming days so we have opted to stay State side and head on toward the West coast. Our time is flying by and there is a lot more to see. Having read the posts that relate to the North of America you will have noted lots of bucket list entries. Will just have to come back again to experience so much more that this whole diverse area has to offer.

Our day is coming to an end, though it is an hour longer due to the end of daylight saving, handy. The rain has really set in and it is decided that we will head for a hotel, sadly missing a camping in the car opportunity as we try to camp a much as possible. Dry and cold is fun but everything soaked would be a little hard to sort out in Jetson. What a wonderful time we have had in this remarkable world.

This will be a changed environment in just a short time as the glaciers shrink. These incredible mountains will no longer be carved and shaped by the power of ice. Once again it will be a whole new world to study as it adapts to change. Whether you are a believer in us being the cause of Climate Change or if it is just Natures way the surest thing is that the world is changing. My thoughts are that it has always been changing and that we must adapt and embrace whatever there is to come. Because we are aware and we are intelligent beings we should be able to study and preserve and work with whatever comes. If we all just try to keep our impact to a minimum whilst still enjoying this wonderful planet, future generations will flourish. We must minimize our waste in all avenues of our life, from the packaging of our food to the resources used to power our world. Every little bit helps but it is the big industrial powers of the world that must take the responsibility. Just a little message toward the cause.

Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album MONTANA.