After a day of magnificent scenery we have twisted and turned our way into the Rocky Mountains. It is well after dark when we pull into the town of Montrose to find a hotel for the night. We read a little information about this area and discover one of the newest designated National Parks in the country, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, listed in 1999, though preserved as a National Monument since 1933.
This is an area of fantastic history and geological wonder being some of the oldest rock of North America exposed by the lifting of the Colorado Plateau, volcanic eruptions and the 2 million years of carving by the unyielding Gunnison River. We are wondering why we have not heard about it before. We decide a detour is necessary and head off to the park.
It is a short distance from Montrose and within 20 minutes we are up close and personal with one of the most magnificent views one could ever have. It is written that one cannot help but be affected and moved by ones first sight of this natural wonder, and they are right. This is a series of canyon and gorges that at their minimum plunge 2,000ft down to the ferocious Gunnison River. It is easy to understand why early explorers declared this an impenetrable area.
At the Visitor Center we meet the most enthusiastic and knowledgeable Park Ranger who begins our learning curve by showing us the best introductory movie yet. It details the history of this deep chasm cut by the raging torrents of the river. Through history, even in the lives of the Ute Indians, man had known of the canyons existence but had always left it in peace, because it was thought impossible to descend into its depths. There had been only 3 previous attempts by intrepid men risking their lives descending into these sheer cliffs from 1853 – The Gunnison Expedition, 1883 – The Bryant Expedition and 1900 – The Pelton Expedition, all only reaching the Narrows, a spot in the canyon only 40ft across and not very far into the region. In 1901 two young men, Abraham Lincoln Fellows and Will Torrence, came up with the daring plan of using inflatable rafts to traverse the waters where all others had failed. They scrambled and swam, fell and literally just through themselves into the rapids hoping to survive and pop out the other side and miraculously managed to traverse the valley floor, going where no man had ever managed to go before. Their efforts eventually lead to the building of a tunnel that transported life giving water to the Uncompahgre Valley, once a barren waste land, to become a flourishing fertile productive area, supporting many lives, in 1905.
Luckily this magnificent, jaw droppingly gorgeous, view was made accessible to the people and today we can take in the vantage points of the park to experience the wonder for ourselves. Before we head out to explore we chat with our park host about all sorts of things, his advice being invaluable for other areas we still have to come and also increasing our knowledge of those places we have been. What an amazing young man who has already experienced life as a serviceman in Afghanistan and is obviously passionate about the Park system that he now works in, having spent time in numerous parks around the country. It was a pleasure to chat with him.
On with our visit, the snow having shut some roads, we can travel the South Rim Road to see some of the most majestic vistas the park has to offer, especially enjoying the Painted Wall. This is the highest cliff in Colorado at 2250ft from river to rim. It is particularly beautiful as it is a showcase of the layers of different rocks and minerals laid down over billions of years to then be carved and eroded by the power of this river. Due to damming of the river up stream it is now only one fifth as powerful today but is still carving away at a rate of 1inch per 100 years. We are impressed by the sound of the water drifting up to us, apparently it is impossible to talk and be heard at the rivers side, something we will not experience this visit as the pathways are too dangerous to make a descent. Each lookout is made all the more beautiful by the snow highlighted north faces, punctuating all the nooks and crannies of the cliffs and gorges. This park was an unexpected jewel in our adventure, one that took the day to explore so returned to our previous nights accommodation. No forward progress made but our lives enriched by this relatively unknown park.
Photos can be found on our Facebook page in the album COLORADO.
Here We Come World 